I'd lke to go a bit more into depth with the region in which my September '11 adventure began, namely the Côtes du Rousillon & Côtes du Roussilon Villages. It's hard to simply gloss over a wine region like Roussillon, due to its comparatively vast area and variety of soils & micro-climates, but I hope I can do it some justice here by providing a little insight into the distinctive characteristics of both the terroir and producers. To be sure, the region has received its share of flack (some justified) from wine consumers and reviewers over the years. This is due to the fact that many producers in the warmer lower-lying regions of Roussillon have perhaps not been as vigilant as to harvest timing etc. as they should, with the result being over-ripe wines which are in need of fruit acid and balance. With more knowledge of (and experimentation with) planting the appropriate grape varieties in the right locations, plus more cautious monitoring of ripening, many vignerons have begun to create more finesseful and balanced wines, albeit while maintaining Roussillon's signature fleshy texture.

Low gravelly terrace in Côtes du Roussillon (harvest 2011)

In late February I had the wonderful opportunity to experience first-hand some wines in this style while attending Southern France's premier wine event, ViniSud, in Montpellier. Generally, the reds of Roussillon resemble, in character, those of the Corbières and other Languedoc regions, at least in terms of their dried herb notes, deriving from their surrounding garrigue terrain. On the other hand they have a tendancy toward a "chewier" texture than other Southern French reds, while often expressing a bit more "dust & leather" à la Rhone. I believe this could be partly attributed to the slightly greater proportion of carignan grapes cultivated in both Rousillon and the Cote Catalane areas surrounding it, a variety that seems to love the poor soils of Roussillon. As well though, the similarity to the Rhone's gravelly plains shouldn't be overlooked either. In addition to these vast gravelly terraces, one can also find numerous vineyards planted on crystalline schiste and granite-based soils, mainly in the foothills of the Pyrenees. These wines tend to be a bit more elegant with lower alcohol content than those in the lower-lying areas, and have been a catalyst for the renewed interest in the region (both by wine consumers and vineyard land seekers). I already referenced carignan as a major component of Rousillon blends. This is the region's signature variety, giving their reds great structure and longevity. However, grenache (or "garnatxa" in Catalan) is also important in contributing suppleness and alcohol content to the wines. Syrah though, has probably seen the biggest increase recently in terms of percentage in the region, considered to add perfumy aromatics and complexity to the wines. Rounding out the four principal red varieties is mourvedre, which is found primarily in the vineyards closest to the Mediterranean, and which many growers like for its color and fine tannins. Finally, in recent years there has been a growing trend for area vignerons to produce at least one cuvee of pure (or majority) carignan. These wines, typically from low-yielding old vines, are often considered an estate's finest expression of terroir (though ironically AOP rules don't allow them to use the Cotes du Roussillon/Villages names on the label for these), and the prices reflect this! There is a even a movement afoot in Roussillon to have the AOP rules changed, to allow for 100% carignan bottlings under the Roussillon & Roussillon Villages appellation labels. For tasting notes/ratings of some of the wines tasted at ViniSud, please see the featured wine reviews below.

The two main Roussillon sub-regions: Côtes du Roussillon and Côtes du Roussillon Villages together form a sort of ampitheatre with the Mediterranean representing the "stage" (east side) and the foothills of the Pyranees forming the "seating" or north, west and south sides. Roussillon Villages is located on the north side of the ampitheatre, just south of the Corbières, while Roussillon is predominantly on the south & west side approaching the Spanish border. Carving up the middle of the two regions are the three rivers: L'Agly, La Têt, & Le Tech, which of course help explain the gravelly/sandy soils in the lower elevations of both regions. In addition there are a handful of individual villages on the north (Roussillons-Villages) side which have obtained their own separate appellations, i.e. Caramany, Tautavel, Latour de France etc. However the map below can better portray the layout of the region than my description. Perpignan, The regions "capitol" is a vibrant city with deep Catalan roots, and provides a great place to experience the food and culture of the region, as well as a good base for exploring the surrounding vineyards and domaines.

courtesy of Conseil Interprofessionel des Vins du Roussillon

The last stop on my September Languedoc trip was in the Limoux region, just south of the medieval fortress city of Carcassonne, and surrounding the charming market town of the same name. This sparkling wine region seems almost to be an anomaly as a part of France known mainly for its warm dry Mediterrannean climate. However with the somewhat cooler micro-climate (higher elevation) and right choice of varieties, their vignerons have left no doubt about the ability to produce good quality bubbly.The appellation has always made the case that they, not Champagne, were the first to produce sparkling wine in France, with the first mention of "Blanquette de Limoux" (being the sparkling version of the local white still wine) appearing in 1531 in papers written by Benedictine monks at an abbey in Saint-Hilaire. Today the term "Blanquette" is synonymous with their principal indigenous white grape variety for sparklers, mauzac. In fact, with the changes in AOP regs in 1990, sparkling wine labeled as "Blanquette de Limoux" must contain at least 90% mauzac, with chardonnay and chenin blanc being the only other varieties allowed for the remaining 10%. At this same time, a new designation, "Crémant de Limoux" was introduced, which allowed for the use of up to 90% chardonnay & chenin blanc grapes with a minority percentage of mauzac and/or pinot noir. This move was undoubtably taken to insure the protection of the uniquely Limoux mauzac grape. Just as the picpoul variety has done for coastal areas of SE Languedoc, mauzac has provided the comparatively warm Limoux region with a grape capable of achieving the lower alcohol and zesty acidity needed for quality sparkling wine. For the record, although I readily acknowledge the overall superiority of true Champagne in the world of bubbly, I was drawn to this region because of its increasingly consistent quality for the money, the quest for which is of course a main focus of my agenda - i.e. at an average of $13 or so per bottle ($9-10 if you're buying it there), these are wines that can be drunk practically on a daily basis. How many among "we the 99%" can afford to indulge in Champagne that way?

My Limoux tour took me to two very different but equally high quality domaines: Domaine Fourn and Domaine J. Laurens. The former, an old family estate, nestled in the hills above the town of Limoux, and the latter a fairly new addition to the local wine scene, whose facility and vineyards are located on a lower ridge just west of Limoux, and which is already garnering high praise among Limoux aficionados.

Courtesy of Conseil Interprofessionel des Vins du Languedoc

I had already visited the amiable Robert family of Domaine Fourn once before in 2002, after reading glowing reports on their wines. I was immediately attracted to their traditional production style - and of course, the resulting authentic character it yielded: like the typical green apple notes on the nose & palate (especially their Blanquette). They also produce a Blanquette "Methode Ancestrale" which, with its rich bready yeastiness and slight oxydation resembles more closely Champagne.

Mélanie Robert in Domaine Fourn's tasting room

  Mauzac grapes heading for the press at Domaine Fourn (Sept. 2011)

The somewhat smaller Domaine J. Laurens, by contrast is housed in a modern facility with shiny new equipment. Looks can be deceiving though, as their tidy operation doesn't preclude the use of traditional methods à la Fourn. Laurens was founded in 1983 by a native "Champenois" and was purchased by a longtime scion with local roots, Jacques Calvel, in 2002. I was lead through a tasting of their cuvees by the owner, and came away very enthusiastic about the future for Limoux. Stylistically, Laurens' brut sparklers tend to be a bit perfumier than Fourn's, while also using a smaller "dosage"  - i.e. drier than those of Fourn. The star of the day for me would have to be their brut rosé (see below) - delightfully crisp, delicate and refreshing. Prices for J. Laurens wines are slightly above average for the region (e.g. the rosé would be $15-16 in the U.S.), but still a relative bargain in the world of bubbly.

Tasting line-up at Domaine J. Laurens

Low hills in Limoux AOP (near Dom. J. Laurens, Sept. 2011)

Explanation of Symbols

In this, the 3rd issue of The Trusty Vine, I'll be moving on to the Corbières to relate my visits there, then, with my last post of this series I'll venture into neighboring Minervois and further east to St. Chinian.

For those unfamiliar with the geography of the western Languedoc, I think it helps to know that the two most well-known sub-appellations in this area, Corbières and Minervois, are only separated by the Aude River (see map below), which starts in the foothills of the Pyranees, flowing southeast into the Mediterranean north of Narbonne. Both regions share a predominant soil type, limestone-clay, and both share very similar climatic influences as well as the ubiquitous "garrigue" terrain (the scrubby, herb-infused hillsides lying between the valley floor and the higher forrested mountains. Perhaps the biggest difference is the more uniformly south and west facing slopes of Minervois vineyard sites versus a more diverse variety of exposures in the Corbières. In addition, the Minervois tends to have fewer vineyard sites in lower, flatter plains than Corbières, as well as somewhat less marine influence from the Mediterranean (at least on the south flank of each region). Both regions have recently divided their appellations into individual "terroirs" (distinctive climatic/geological subregions), while granting a  higher classification to specific areas within each appellation: in the case of the Minervois, the area surrounding the village of La Livinière, and in the Corbières, the terrain around the village of Boutenac. As in any such classification, there are bound to be politics and injured egos involved, but it seems most seasoned connoisseurs of Languedoc wines agree that on average these two terroirs are producing the most consistently high quality wines of their respective appellations. Only time will tell though, whether other areas may emerge which will garner as high or higher acolades as these two. I never cease to be amazed that in such an ancient (Greco-Roman) wine region as the Languedoc, the quality classification of vineyard sites and wines continues to be a work in progress. The Languedoc's status as a sort of "New Frontier" in French wine can largely be explained by the fact that until recent times, too much emphasis was placed on quantity over quality - often giving preference to a grape variety mix which was not the best suited to a particular climate and soil. Of course this is now precisely what makes the region so exciting for oenophiles.

* map courtesy of La Région Languedoc-Roussillon

On a beautiful morning in late September I drove out from Marcorignan to visit the Cibeins family at Chateau Cabriac in Douzens. With limited time in this trip, I purposely tried to select some vintners in subregions with which I'm a bit less familiar. From all I'd read and heard, Ch. Cabriac was an estate that is a must see - as well as very typical - for the Montagne d'Alaric area of Corbières. Although perhaps not as heralded as the Boutenac area, Montagne d'Alaric boasts a handful of the most respected wineries in Corbières. I was graciously received by Jean & Michele Cibeins, who led me through a brief tasting of their current wine offerings and a cellar tour, followed by an unexpected invitation to lunch - an impromptu but delicious spread of cheeses, cured meats and fruit - taken in a garden area next to the chateau. I should mention here that there's often a misperception among Americans that French Chateaux are all inhabited by elitists who have little regard for visitors. The Cibeins are among the many French wine chateau owners who help dispel that myth on a daily basis, inviting strangers into their homes as if they were family.

Chateau Cabriac, Mont d'Alaric, Corbières

From anywhere in this part of the Corbières, one need only look to the south at the massive limestone ridge of Mont d'Alaric to understand why the vineyard soils here are so rocky. The red wines I experienced at Cabriac were very much what I'd anticipated, very good concentration of dark fruit with a firm backbone of tannin which is to be expected from vines grown on shallow rocky soils. What caught me unaware though was the beautifully light and crisp white from the Vermentino grape I tasted during my visit here. This grape, known more often by the name Rolle in southern France is an Italian import which (judging from this example) has great potential in Corbières. In addition, it appears that the Syrah variety appears to have more success here than in most other parts of the Corbières, a higher proportion of which gives the Cabriac that extra bit of structure in the reds.

Due to a little too much sipping and socializing, I had to call ahead to my next stop, Ch. Caraguilhes, to beg forgiveness for my certain tardiness. Thankfully they were very flexible with their time, I'm suspect because they had no other visitors scheduled on a weekday in late September - during harvest no less. Ch. Caraguilhes is situated above a very gently sloping (and extensive!) vineyard in a wide valley on the west side of the Corbières' Boutenac region - and on the opposite side of Montagne d'Alaric from Ch. Cabriac. The soil here is deeper than Cabriac's vineyard but slightly less so than the area closer to the village of Boutenac. Ch. Caraguilhes was actually still finishing up the harvest when I visited, I guess not surprising since they have so many hectares of vines, plus a substantial planting of the Mourvedre variety, which is one of the last to ripen in the Corbières. Caraguilhes only had a few bottled wines still available for tasting - but at least enough to get a good feel for the "house style". Caraguilhes' reds often exhibit a distinctive earthy/herbal character, which speaks of typical Corbières, just more intensely so. Their organic approach in both vineyard & cellar guarantees that their wines' distinct character is a natural (terroir-derived) attribute, vs. a product of excessive winemaking manipulation. Judging from the spacious facility and high-end equipment, Caraguilhes is obviously a well-financed operation - in this case, not a deterrent to the production of authentic and natural wine!

Fermentation area, Chateau Caraguilhes, Corbières

My last stop on the Corbières circuit was Chateau Ollieux-Romanis - not to be confused with their equally rated next door neighbors, Chateau Ollieux (next trip?). The chateau is situated at the base of a gentle south slope in the heart of the Corbières-Boutenac terroir. A rather rustic tasting room is located on the ground floor of the building with production facilities connected to the back of the chateau. This is one of the older estates in the region, at least concerning its existence as a family-owned (non co-op) producer. Like many medium to large estates in the area, Ollieux-Romanis offers a fairly wide range of wines in terms of quality and price. Their wines provide a very good introduction to the Corbières, as they seem to posess all the most typical regional traits in their flavor profile - and above all, are not heavily extracted fruit bombs - rather fairly subtle.

Entrance to Chateau Ollieux-Romanis, Corbières

Barrel aging cellar, Ch. Ollieux-Romanis

Featured Wine Reviews

The following reviews of Languedoc wines were tasted either at home in Salem, or in a group tasting - i.e. not on site at the winery. You'll notice that they are not nec correlated to the estates visited. An explanation of symbols can be found at the bottom of page.

AY-YAY-YAY.....another wine blog!!  Of course this reaction crossed my mind when I concluded that I needed to add my voice to the cyber-sea of wine opinions. On the other hand, as a former vigneron/winery owner, wine shopkeeper and wholesale wine buyer over the past 36 years, I feel that I have much to contribute to the conversation. As I've mentioned in discussions with various wine writers/reviewers over the years - there seem to be two categories of wine writers out there: ones that have a knack for communicating and writing, but have limited wine knowledge and tasting skills (you know, the naive enthusiasts), and ones that have a good depth of wine knowledge and subject experience, but with limited writing skills. Occasionally someone with both of these attributes emerges, but it tends to be the exception. For the record, I feel that I comfortably fall into the second category, so please bear with me as I "test the microphone".

So what's my purpose here? I feel a bit like a crusader against the current state of affairs in the wine information realm. That is, I strongly feel that today's wine consumers are not being well-served by the major publications and their excessively subjective style of reviewing - coupled with a (usually 100 pt.) rating system which is all too often self-serving as well as misused by the readership. The wine industry is sorely in need of a new paradigm in wine reviewing. I realize that I can't accomplish this lofty goal alone, but merely hope that I can a be a part of a larger movement towards more informative wine discussions and reviews for the consumer. Above all, I would like to help stem the tide of wine publications whose ratings tend to reflect a "penchant for the obvious" in wines, while hopefully enlightening consumers about a wine's subtler attributes which make it distinctively different from its peers. In the process, I will share stories of my encounters and experiences in cellar and vineyard. By the nature of my status as a lone publisher with a limited budget, I feel that I must confine myself mostly to a particular segment of the wine world, so I've chosen to focus on the area where I have the most familiarity: Southern France - esp. the Languedoc region. I will also limit reviews of wines from my native Willamette Valley, Oregon because of conflicts of interest due to my relationship with many producers here. However, part of of my mission is to bring attention to the great wine values in the market, so I intend also to cover wines under $30 from other regions, including Oregon. This need is prompted by the tendancy of the main-stream wine press to focus largely on the prestigious appellations and collector-type wines, often to the detriment of covering the numerous great affordable wines for everyday consumption.

Above all, my approach to reviewing will emphasize a wine's authenticity & typicality of region and variety, not just the hedonistic pleasure it may deliver. In an effort to lend more objectivity to my reviews I will limit my descriptors to less esoteric terms (if I hear the over-hyped term "mind-boggling" again I think I'll gag!). As well, I will use icons to indicate more essential wine components (please see below). Realizing that it's simply not practical (nor acceptable by the consumer) to avoid assessing a wine's overall quality, I've chosen to apply three basic quality levels to wines reviewed, indicated at the end of this article. My hope though is that readers will balance this categorization with a wine's description in making decisions about their preferences. Again this is in keeping with my goal to minimize subjectivity. I won't include reviews of wines below the minimum ("gratifying") quality level. Having hosted, as a producer, numerous wine writers over the years, I've observed that it's extremely difficult for a wine reviewer to objectively assess a wine when tasting on premise & from barrel etc. Therefore, although I may often discuss and describe wines tasted on site, I will not rate a wine tasted in this way, rather only in comparative blind tastings in a "neutral" location.

Finally, although I can't resist the opportunity to introduce readers to lesser known discoveries made during my escapades in the South of France, I will try to remain focused primarily on wines that are available in the American market - either in local wine shops or via mail order.

Please come back again soon for my first article on select wines of the western side of the Languedoc (Corbières, Minervois, Côte de Rousillon) which I experienced on a recent trip there.

À Bientôt - Russ